Selling Shiseido

I recently stumbled across a fantastic series of articles and a treasure trove of images about the history of Japanese cosmetics and fragrance company Shiseido on the Visualizing Cultures website of the Massachusetts Institute of Technology. Visualizing Cultures is described as "image-driven scholarship" and frankly nobody loves a pretty picture more than I do. I'm also intrigued by early modern Japan, the period when contact with the west created incredible cultural changes over a fairly short period of time.

I'm also a little sweet on Shiseido as a brand, having always loved the 80s art direction by Serge Lutens and the fragrance I wear (and previously reviewed) Tactics by Shiseido.

Shiseido perfumes, ca. 1918–21. Ume no Hana (Plum Blossom, WOO-ME in English on the label) & Fuji no Hana (Wisteria). Yabe Sue, designer. [Image from MIT Visualizing Cultures.]

The series of articles is called "Selling Shiseido: Cosmetics Advertising & Design in Early 20th-Century Japan" by Gennifer Weisenfeld. It's quite a fascinating history and treasure trove of art deco packaging and design.

Shiseido cosmetics poster, 1930. [Image from MIT Visualizing Cultures.]

The series of articles begins with the Introduction in Selling Shiseido I. It continues with a series of themed visual timelines called Visual Narratives in Selling Shiseido II, and Selling Shiseido III is a huge set of Image Galleries.

Review - "Cuir Velours" by Naomi Goodsir Parfums

I'm a late passenger on the leather fragrance train. My mistaken prejudice had always been that the leather style was old mannish and a bit too, well, butch for me. The sort of thing you'd catch a whiff of in barbershops, or at the tobacconist. While, in the meantime I've been challenging myself by embracing a bit more yin in fragrances.

The sort of thing you'd catch a whiff of at the florist, perhaps.

Leather in fragrance is actually an accord, a combination of either natural extraits or synthesized aroma molecules that brings to mind the rich smell of leather. The idea. The memory. Richness. Warmth. A little tarry, smoky bite. An abstract that evokes nature.

One of the cool things I've discovered about leather fragrances is that they can smell amazing on women. Softened with floral notes, sexed up with amber, or even with the padded shoulders and mannish tie of tobacco, they can exude confidence and sophistication. In fact one of the theories about the explosion of leather fragrances for women in the 1920s (Chanel's "Cuir de Russie" or Caron's "Tabac Blond" for example) is that women were smoking in unprecedented numbers and leather based fragrances smell so amazing on those naughty, naughty emancipated smokers.

These days the majority of bottles on the fragrance counters are severely gendered. Women are flowers, fruits, sweeties and sometimes even bubblegum, and men are citrus, woods, tobacco, spices and yes leather. Sure that's a generalisation, but the mass market has become more heavily polarised over the decades and sadly a lot more predictable.

So thank the fates, and everyone else, that as the mass market fragrances got more boring the niche or artisanal fragrances got a lot more interesting. Nature hates a vacuum, as they say. Those niche market rascals are also often much less hung up on gender, and for my money that's a hell of a lot more interesting and sexy.

"Cuir Velours" (aka "Soft Leather") by Australian milliner/accessories designer Naomi Goodsir is very firmly unisex. I had heard good things about "Cuir Velours", so a while back while I was cruising LuckyScent (and ordering sample decants like a demon) I added a sample to my basket.

O, as they say, M G.

On the strength of the sample I searched for a supplier closer to home, and discovered Peony Haute Perfumery in Melbourne was a stockist. I may not have decided to visit Melbourne based on this alone, but it sure as hell was a contributing factor. Go and read about my visit to Peony if you haven't already and perhaps shed a quiet tear that such fabulous places still exist.

Cuir Velours, by Naomi Goodsir Parfums (2012)
Notes: Leather, tobacco, rum, cistus labdanum, incense, fleur d’immortelle
Nose: Julien Rasquinet

"Oriental leather. A deep & textured perfume, that evocatively encases the skin like soft velvet suede. A tobacco atmosphere supported by notes of rum, cistus labdanum, incense & fleur d'immortelle."

[Description by Naomi Goodsir Parfums.]

5 Minutes
The opening of Cuir Velours is gorgeous; tobacco and leather support a beautiful boozy fruit set of top notes. Peachy, rummy and a quick flash of something that smells to me like fresh strawberry. The actual fruit, with its tartness intact, rather than a sugary candy idea of strawberry. All of this is given loft by the incense note. The balance is so good that the whole thing sings as a rich whole.

30 Minutes
The fleeting fresh fruit notes have now given way to a more raisiny rum fruit note and it is easier to detect the smokier tones of the incense and tobacco. One of the notes is immortelle, or helichrysum, which is described as having a maple syrup like odour, with honey, straw, fruit and tea characteristics. The effect is warm, sexy and sophisticated. The projection and sillage are very good.

2 Hours
One word that is sure to make artisanal fragrance fans narrow their eyes and clutch their pearls is the word linear. Fragrances that are unchanging and tend not to evolve on the skin. This is often a characteristic of less expensive mass market fragrances, due to their structure and the types of synthetics that are used.  

Cuir Velours is not linear, and although it does evolve it does not go through a dramatic change over time. I think this is primarily because the structure is so dominated by heart and base notes right from the get go. The transition it does make is into a softer, amber version of itself. The leather, smokiness and incense are all still detectable, overlaid with a softened version of the boozy fruit heart of the fragrance. The balance of this fragrance is noteworthy, with all aspects working in harmony.

Verdict
Love. Cuir Velours is sexy, perfect for nighttime and cooler weather, when something warm and smoky is called for. I get fantastic sillage and longevity from this fragrance. When I initially assembled the pump action spray that ships with the bottle, I thought the spray result was a little mean at first, but in reality I wouldn't want anything more. The strength of this fragrance is very much an Eau de Parfum. 

All in all a great investment and this winter I have been wearing this a lot already.

Tinkering

Apologies if you visit this blog and things seem a little rough around the edges and in flux. I'd love to be one of those people who can give birth to a creative enterprise fully formed, but in reality I'm a trier. A tinkerer. For me is the give it a go, suck and see approach.

For example, as I write this the header I made is red and green. It's ok, but after I put it up and thought "that looks nice" the second thing I thought was "ugh, Christmas". So this too shall change soon no doubt. Maybe I'll resurrect it in December...

BBC Perfume Documentary

I had heard about this 2011 documentary but had never seen it. Of course I should have just gone straight to youtube!

Part 1: Something Old, Something New (58mins)


Part 2: Bottling The Memory (58mins)


Part 3: The Smell of the Future (47mins)

Melbourne Fragrance Shopping. Service and Style.

I was recently in Melbourne for a short holiday, and I penciled in an entire day to visit two fragrance destinations I was very excited to see. (Well, I say "see" but what I really mean is splash some cash and get my hands on some very hard to obtain treasures.)

Like many members of the fragrance community over time I have started to depend on buying fragrances online, partly for price but also for convenience and the ability to enlarge the range of available fragrances above and beyond the local department store. Which is understandable, but ignores the fact that the art of shopping for fragrance can be an enormous pleasure in itself. I also believe in supporting local retailers, and frankly if we don't use them we are likely to lose them.

So on a grey, cold and rainy early winter day in Melbourne I set out on a fragrance hunting safari.

Peony Haute Perfumery
I arrived early to Peony Haute Perfumery so I explored the lovely village area of Auburn Rd, Hawthorn where it is located and had breakfast in a nearby cafe. Stepping into Peony from the cold and rain, I found myself in a beautiful little jewel box of a store. The interior is mainly black and white, with white walls and elegant gloss black or mirrored fixtures, and a few taupe or beige accents. The net result is light and bright, elegant, and vintage in feel without being stuffy. The neutral palette also lets the products be the star.

Oh lordy, and what products they are!

 

Amouage, Creed and Keiko Mecheri fragrances display

Shortly after I walked in the door, the owner Jill introduced herself and let me know that she'd be happy to help if I needed it. I was on a mission to bag myself a bottle of "Cuir Velours" by Naomi Goodsir, so once Jill pointed me in the right direction I had an awestruck wander around.

Fornasetti candles, room fragrance and accessories

I actually found myself getting a little overwhelmed. Amazing brands I had never heard of, and fragrances I had wanted to try for ages were everywhere. I had set myself a budget, so the bottle of "Cuir Velors" was going to have to be my limit. For this trip anyway. Given the cash I would have bought the entire Fornasetti candle range, just for starters.

Fragrances, candles and body products on display

Jill was absolutely lovely to talk to, and so knowledgeable. We did some spritzing and sampling, chatted about fragrances and the industry, and before I left Jill gave me a substantial number of samples to take with me to try and enjoy.

Cire Trudon candles and room fragrance

What a fantastic experience. Great service. Amazing products. I think I was probably in the store for about an hour, and had an absolute ball. It was almost a bonus that at the end of it all I had a lovely bag full of treats.

I would be so broke if I lived in Melbourne.

Fleurage Perfume Atelier
My second destination was Fleurage Perfume Atelier in South Melbourne. Fleurage are different and unique, in that they make all their own fragrances from natural extraits and essential oils. All the fragrances are parfum or eau de parfum strength.

The bespoke fragrance ingredients and other displays at Fleurage

The welcome at Fleurage was just as warm and friendly as at Peony. The owner and perfumer Emma was on hand to help me find a fragrance, which was (as I had suspected from reading about the fragrances on the website) the lovely spicy, incense, fougere "Mabon". While she was wrapping the beautifully presented bottle, we had a nice long chat about fragrance and the business.

Fragrance display at Fleurage

The store itself is quite discrete from the street, with an elegant art deco styled interior of grey and black, with some original timber pieces. While we were chatting Emma explained that over the years her business model has changed slightly, with an increase in bespoke fragrances, consulting to the industry, and classes now making up a large part of the business. Consequently Fleurage in it's current location is as much showroom and workshop as retail store.

So, there you have it. Two fantastic shopping experiences, made all the better by owners who were passionate about their businesses and the industry, and happy to chat to a fellow 'fume-head. In the process I shelled out over $350-, not a small sum, but I had a brilliant day and have two bottles of amazing fragrances to provide long lasting enjoyment.

Thanks to Jill and Emma for the great friendly and knowledgeable service.

Review - Berdoues 1902 Eau de Cologne Premium Collection "Vetiver Herbacea"

As I mentioned the other week I had a little splurge recently and bought some new fragrances for the new year. Three of them were blind buys, and a couple of the choices I made were based on the fact that they sounded like ideal summer scents. And summer it has been! Sydney has been sweltering with record temperatures this summer, and so something light and fresh seems very much what's required.

I've become quite a big fan of Vetiver, with its complex herbal aroma that has a jute or hessian note. So when I spotted  Berdoues 1902 Eau de Cologne Premium Collection "Vetiver Herbacea" online I decided to give it a try and see if it might fit the bill for a summer scent. Berdoues is an old house, founded in 1902 in Toulouse when Guillaume Berdoues created his perfumery. Since then four generations of perfumers have continued the brand.

Berdoues 1902 Eau de Cologne Premium Collection "Vetiver Herbacea"

Berdoues 1902 Eau de Cologne Premium Collection "Vetiver Herbacea"

5 Minutes
Vetiver Herbacea opens with a pleasant fresh, surprisingly aldehydic floral and powdery musk beginning, with a lightly citrus and herbal feel. If you are looking for the earthy green jute and hessian notes of natural vetiver you will be disappointed. No rasp here. This is a posh drawing room and fine china notion of vetiver.

And I say "notion of vetiver" because, surprisingly, I don't think it actually contains any. Um, nope. This is despite the fact that it says "Refreshing and Revitalising Essential Oils" all over the box front, and then bangs on about the virtues of Vetiver essential oil in combination with Mandarine (sic) essential oil.

When I was unwrapping the box I noticed that there was a comprehensive list of ingredients, and amongst the Benzophenone-1 and 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde I could not find vetiver, or mandarin. Citral (from lemongrass), yes, Oakmoss extract, sure, and a whole lot of aroma chemicals, definitely. I have no problem with aroma molecules and non-natural perfume ingredients, but c'mon guys, let's not pretend it's choc full of the virtues of natural vetiver.

30 Minutes
30 minutes in and the initial aldehydic floral and powdery notes have eased off and let the herbal, clean musk and light woodsy notes take a bit more of a starring role. This is definitely an Eau de Cologne in terms of longevity and sillage, and after a half hour it is a very pleasant, light skin scent. Wear this to the office in warm weather and nobody will be rummaging in their drawers for their gas mask. Elevator friendly. (And as a bonus everyone will think you smell perfectly summery and fresh.)

2 Hours
After 2 hours this has become a barely there skin scent, with a light herbal and laundry musk feel. The nature of the fragrance hasn't changed a great deal since the head notes exited the scene, just lighter. If anyone gets close enough to be up close and personal with you, clean and fresh would be their verdict. Nice. Well mannered. Perhaps a little dull, if like me you had something a little more well Vetiver-y in mind.

New Fragrances for a New Year

I don't really ever need an excuse to treat myself, but the start of a new year seems like the ideal time to try new things. Instead of the classic resolutions of trying to eat better, trying to get more fit, this year I'm going for something a little more hedonistic and a little easier to stick to... trying a bunch of new fragrances.

Armed with two newly acquired gift vouchers received as Christmas gifts from my sisters, I headed into the Mecca Cosmetica counters inside the city Myer department store. I figured that now was the time to act and splash out on something a bit swish. Paying full retail for fragrance is not something I find easy, but shave a good chunk off the retail with some gift vouchers and I'm ready to buy something top shelf.

My shopping experience at Mecca Cosmetica in Myer was absolutely brilliant. I was in there fairly early so the store was relatively quiet and the staff able to spend some time without feeling pressured. Twice I have shopped at Mecca Cosmetica in Myer and twice I have received fantastic service. (So much so that I emailed Mecca Cosmetica and told them so, and received a lovely email back in return, with a promise to pass it on to the staff in question. I don't know if they receive any commission, but if you're shopping with Mecca I recommend speaking to Prue in the city, and Fiona who normally works out of the Bondi Junction store.)

I found a fellow perfume nerd in staff member Prue, and we had a fantastic natter and I tried a bunch of their high end niche fragrances. In the end I plonked down my vouchers plus a fair whack of cash to buy the 100ml size of "Mister Marvelous" by Swedish fragrance house Byredo. Not everything works out as we planned, and life can be a bit disappointing. I'll do a proper review of "Mister Marvelous" at some time in the near future, but it will be a cautionary tale about not rushing into a decision when buying fragrances. A lesson learned.

Sigh. Moving on.

At the start of my Christmas and New Year holiday I set up an account with the online discount retailer Cosmetics Now, and about 8 days later I had my first parcel. Three of the four fragrances I ordered were blind buys based on reading the main notes and other people's reviews Fragrantica; Angel Schlesser "Homme", Jacques Fath "Pour L'Homme" and Parfums Berdoues 1902 "Vetiver". (The Kenzo "Pour Homme" is an old favourite). They are all very different, and inspire differing levels of devotion, but thankfully not a dud in the bunch.

Around the same time I placed the above order I was also scanning the US website LuckyScent and decided to try their decant samples service. At USD $3 - $4 a sample it's an affordable way to try new fragrances without committing the big bucks. For less than $50 Australian dollars (including shipping) I have 11 precious little temptations to try. And they arrived through the letterbox on the afternoon of the same day I picked up my parcel of fragrances!

Riches! Riches, I tell you! The eclectic bunch I ordered:

Andree Putman "Preparation Parfumee"
Atelier Cologne "Mistral Patchouli"
Atelier Cologne "Vetiver Fatal"
Caron "Tabac Blond"
Caron "Yatagan"
Knize/Knize "Ten"
Parfums de Nicolai "Balle de Match"
Parfums de Nicolai "Cedrat Intense"
Parfums de Nicolai "Patchouli Intense Homme"
The Different Company "Bois d'Iris"
The Different Company "Sel de Vetiver"

I keep pulling them out of their bubble wrap envelope and staring at them. Little gems that they are. I'm almost hesitant to uncap any of them unless I can devote a bit of time and olfactory concentration to them, and of course the imagined worse case scenario sees me butter fingering the tiny caps and spilling the precious juice everywhere.

So all in a rush I have a whole bunch of new fragrances to try, and to review. Some tested already, and some yet to be tried. Even if I don't fall in love, although I might, I fully expect to be challenged and intrigued. I know what I'll be doing for the next few weeks.

Hello 2013! Don't you smell marvellous?!