Review - Variations On A Theme

I've purchased and sampled quite a few fragrances this year so far, and one thing I keep coming back to as a theme for 2013 is incense notes. Traditionally I was never much of a one for spice and smoke (or leathers for that matter, as I wrote about the other day). I was always more interested in florals, citrus, marine notes and light woods. 

Tastes change, and also become more adventurous given exposure to new ideas and new brands. I've even grown to love elements I might have previously thought of as angular or harsh. Hot dry spices. The jute rasp of real vetiver. Intense smoky birch tar. Frankincense, patchouli, myrrh and other incense style notes are generally not as challenging, but can contain aspects of all of these sorts of notes. Perfumers can choose to smooth off this angularity, while still allowing the incense to give loft and richness to the composition, or enhance it's angularity with other spices, herbs or wood notes.

Three of the incense based fragrances I have purchased or sampled recently are Cardinal by James Heeley, and 2 of the 5 member Series 3: Incense collection by Comme des Garçons. The Comme des Garçons series really caught my attention, with each fragrance in the series being inspired by various world religions. Kyoto for Japanese Buddhism and Shintoism. Avignon for Catholicism. Jaisalmer for Indian Hinduism. Quarzazate for Islam. Zagorsk for Orthodox Christianity.

Photo via www.basenotes.net

Cardinal, by Heeley (2006). 

Eau de Parfum.

Notes: White Linen, Baie Rose, Black Pepper, Labdanum, Frankincense, Myrrh, Vetiver, Grey Amber & Patchouli

Nose: James Heeley

(Sampled as a 2ml EDP spray, courtesy of Peony Haute Perfumery)

"Incense enrobed in folds of white linen.

A timeless scent built around the traditional incense notes of labdanum, ciste, frankincense and myhr. An air of lightness and purity is portrayed by a note of fresh, clean linen. The association of grey amber, patchouli and vetiver, imparts this perfume with mysticism and a rare and contemporary elegance."

[Notes and description via Heeley Parfums]

Series 3. Incense: Avignon, by Comme des Garçons (2002)

Eau de Toilette.

Notes: Roman Camomile, Cistus Oil, Elemi, Incense, Vanilla, Patchouli, Palisander 

Nose: Bertrand Duchaufour

Series 3. Incense: Kyoto, by Comme des Garçons (2002)

Eau de Toilette.

Notes: Incense, Cypress Oil, Coffee, Teak Wood, Vetiver, Patchouli, Amber, Everlasting Flower, Virginian Cedar

Nose: Bertrand Duchaufour

"Incense, to make one dream of a spiritual journey across the world's historical centres. An evolution of time and space."

[Notes and description by Comme des Garçons Parfums]

5 Minutes
Cardinal, by Heeley
On first spray Cardinal opens with a surprisingly sharp, sour and fizzy note with a medicinal edge. While it's quite striking it is fleeting though, and almost gone by the time I tried to put my finger on what it reminded me of. What then becomes more noticeable is the dry spice-like notes of classic frankincense and myrrh church incense, the ambery labdanum and the heat from the two forms of pepper (the baie rose, or pink peppercorns, and black pepper). The effect is a little reminiscent of the hot dry angularity of spices like turmeric, cardamon or caraway. The herbal 'green jute' rasp of vetiver is also noticeable. What I don't really notice at all is the 'white linen' accord.

Incense: Avignon, by Comme des Garçons
Avignon opens with a warm blast of incense. The vanilla and palisander (Brazilian rosewood) add a warm woody backbone to the fragrance, which compliments the loft and spice qualities of the incense notes, the light floral/amber cistus, and the slightly herbaceous opening notes from the chamomile and elemi. Instead of the dry spice sourness of Cardinal by Heeley, the effect here is less angular and reminiscent of polished woods and church incense while still maintaining a hot, dry spice feel.

Incense: Kyoto, by Comme des Garçons
Kyoto opens with a beautiful green, cool, incense quality backed with light teak wood, and overlaid with a lofty blossom note. There is no mention in the official notes of anything especially floral, but to my nose there is a lovely aldehydic almost cherry blossom note. The brightness and feeling of volume in the floral note make me think that there are definitely some aldehydes at work here. The cypress and incense give the fragrance an almost menthol coolness, and this early the wood and vetiver are noticeable but not especially strong. This knocked my socks off at first sniff in the store, and it still does!

30 Minutes
Cardinal, by Heeley
The sharpness and austerity is largely gone, and in its place is a fairly light incense with a very slightly sour edge. Given the intense blast of the opening, only a half hour later this is surprisingly very light on my skin indeed. I'm not sure I could tell you what white linen smells like (clean laundry musk perhaps?) but I still don't get any impression of it.

Incense: Avignon, by Comme des Garçons
30 minutes in and there isn't a dramatic change. Some of the lofty opening notes have departed leaving in its place a warm spicy and woody incense accord with some smoke. Light spice, incense, balsam and wood. I don't have a church going background, but I have it on good authority that it is a very evocative sketch of a Catholic church. (In my mind I also can't help but compare it to Tauer's "Incense Extrême" which I reviewed here, and which is cold and flinty by comparison. Perhaps more echoey cathedral in that case.)

Incense: Kyoto, by Comme des Garçons
After 30 minutes some of the blossom note has softened, but that airy quality added to the incense and green, woody notes still gives that spacious, cool, forest feel. What has become more noticeable however is the warmth of the teak note, the sweeter and warmer notes from the immortelle ('Everlasting Flower' here) and amber, and the genius of the coffee note. Coffee! Coffee, teak and vetiver may just be one of my favourite accord ideas; warm, toasted, dry, and slightly raspy. I'm still prepared to gush about this, as you may have noticed.

2 Hours
Cardinal, by Heeley
Ok, pleasant but very subtle. 2 hours in and my impressions of Cardinal are very similar to the 30 minute mark, with a little less of the sour edge. A little less of everything to be honest, as the longevity on my skin has been quite poor. The effect is pleasant, as I said, but so barely there that I'm not sure I'd be prepared to invest in an eau de parfum this fleeting.

Incense: Avignon, by Comme des Garçons
By the 2 hour mark Avignon has become a calmer, gentler beast. One thing I sometimes notice with spice/incense fragrances is a bit of sourness (an edge which I can only think to describe as urinous, if you'll beg my pardon). Avignon largely escapes that at all stages, and especially by the 2 hour mark there is no sign of any sourness. At the 2 hour mark Avignon is a study in incense, wood, vanilla and patchouli.

Incense: Kyoto, by Comme des Garçons
After 2 hours Kyoto has softened and warmed up considerably. Much (but not all) of the floral note has departed, and what remains is a cool green fir edge over an incense/patchouli heart, and a teak, cedar, vetiver base. The warmer notes of amber, immortelle and coffee round out the composition without being especially dominant at this point.

Verdict
While I quite liked Cardinal, my heart belongs to the 2 Comme des Garçons.

The two are studies in contrast, and reflect different aspects of incense. Avignon pushes the incense theme in a warm, dry, spicy direction, while Kyoto emphasises the airy, cool, floral possibilities. Avignon is rich browns and golds, while Kyoto is the pink of cherry blossoms and the deep forest green.  Both Kyoto and Avignon are striking in their own ways, very evocative of the religious theme of incense, and with a clear incense note that runs through the entire duration of the fragrance.

I also found the longevity of Kyoto and Avignon to be superior of the three, despite the fact that they are EDT formulations compared to the EDP Cardinal.

[For other incense related reviews see also my reviews of Incense Extrême by Andy Tauer and Cuir Velours by Naomi Goodsir Parfums, and coming up I'll also be reviewing "Mabon" by Fleurage Perfume Atelier.]

Selling Shiseido

I recently stumbled across a fantastic series of articles and a treasure trove of images about the history of Japanese cosmetics and fragrance company Shiseido on the Visualizing Cultures website of the Massachusetts Institute of Technology. Visualizing Cultures is described as "image-driven scholarship" and frankly nobody loves a pretty picture more than I do. I'm also intrigued by early modern Japan, the period when contact with the west created incredible cultural changes over a fairly short period of time.

I'm also a little sweet on Shiseido as a brand, having always loved the 80s art direction by Serge Lutens and the fragrance I wear (and previously reviewed) Tactics by Shiseido.

Shiseido perfumes, ca. 1918–21. Ume no Hana (Plum Blossom, WOO-ME in English on the label) & Fuji no Hana (Wisteria). Yabe Sue, designer. [Image from MIT Visualizing Cultures.]

The series of articles is called "Selling Shiseido: Cosmetics Advertising & Design in Early 20th-Century Japan" by Gennifer Weisenfeld. It's quite a fascinating history and treasure trove of art deco packaging and design.

Shiseido cosmetics poster, 1930. [Image from MIT Visualizing Cultures.]

The series of articles begins with the Introduction in Selling Shiseido I. It continues with a series of themed visual timelines called Visual Narratives in Selling Shiseido II, and Selling Shiseido III is a huge set of Image Galleries.

Review - "Cuir Velours" by Naomi Goodsir Parfums

I'm a late passenger on the leather fragrance train. My mistaken prejudice had always been that the leather style was old mannish and a bit too, well, butch for me. The sort of thing you'd catch a whiff of in barbershops, or at the tobacconist. While, in the meantime I've been challenging myself by embracing a bit more yin in fragrances.

The sort of thing you'd catch a whiff of at the florist, perhaps.

Leather in fragrance is actually an accord, a combination of either natural extraits or synthesized aroma molecules that brings to mind the rich smell of leather. The idea. The memory. Richness. Warmth. A little tarry, smoky bite. An abstract that evokes nature.

One of the cool things I've discovered about leather fragrances is that they can smell amazing on women. Softened with floral notes, sexed up with amber, or even with the padded shoulders and mannish tie of tobacco, they can exude confidence and sophistication. In fact one of the theories about the explosion of leather fragrances for women in the 1920s (Chanel's "Cuir de Russie" or Caron's "Tabac Blond" for example) is that women were smoking in unprecedented numbers and leather based fragrances smell so amazing on those naughty, naughty emancipated smokers.

These days the majority of bottles on the fragrance counters are severely gendered. Women are flowers, fruits, sweeties and sometimes even bubblegum, and men are citrus, woods, tobacco, spices and yes leather. Sure that's a generalisation, but the mass market has become more heavily polarised over the decades and sadly a lot more predictable.

So thank the fates, and everyone else, that as the mass market fragrances got more boring the niche or artisanal fragrances got a lot more interesting. Nature hates a vacuum, as they say. Those niche market rascals are also often much less hung up on gender, and for my money that's a hell of a lot more interesting and sexy.

"Cuir Velours" (aka "Soft Leather") by Australian milliner/accessories designer Naomi Goodsir is very firmly unisex. I had heard good things about "Cuir Velours", so a while back while I was cruising LuckyScent (and ordering sample decants like a demon) I added a sample to my basket.

O, as they say, M G.

On the strength of the sample I searched for a supplier closer to home, and discovered Peony Haute Perfumery in Melbourne was a stockist. I may not have decided to visit Melbourne based on this alone, but it sure as hell was a contributing factor. Go and read about my visit to Peony if you haven't already and perhaps shed a quiet tear that such fabulous places still exist.

Cuir Velours, by Naomi Goodsir Parfums (2012)
Notes: Leather, tobacco, rum, cistus labdanum, incense, fleur d’immortelle
Nose: Julien Rasquinet

"Oriental leather. A deep & textured perfume, that evocatively encases the skin like soft velvet suede. A tobacco atmosphere supported by notes of rum, cistus labdanum, incense & fleur d'immortelle."

[Description by Naomi Goodsir Parfums.]

5 Minutes
The opening of Cuir Velours is gorgeous; tobacco and leather support a beautiful boozy fruit set of top notes. Peachy, rummy and a quick flash of something that smells to me like fresh strawberry. The actual fruit, with its tartness intact, rather than a sugary candy idea of strawberry. All of this is given loft by the incense note. The balance is so good that the whole thing sings as a rich whole.

30 Minutes
The fleeting fresh fruit notes have now given way to a more raisiny rum fruit note and it is easier to detect the smokier tones of the incense and tobacco. One of the notes is immortelle, or helichrysum, which is described as having a maple syrup like odour, with honey, straw, fruit and tea characteristics. The effect is warm, sexy and sophisticated. The projection and sillage are very good.

2 Hours
One word that is sure to make artisanal fragrance fans narrow their eyes and clutch their pearls is the word linear. Fragrances that are unchanging and tend not to evolve on the skin. This is often a characteristic of less expensive mass market fragrances, due to their structure and the types of synthetics that are used.  

Cuir Velours is not linear, and although it does evolve it does not go through a dramatic change over time. I think this is primarily because the structure is so dominated by heart and base notes right from the get go. The transition it does make is into a softer, amber version of itself. The leather, smokiness and incense are all still detectable, overlaid with a softened version of the boozy fruit heart of the fragrance. The balance of this fragrance is noteworthy, with all aspects working in harmony.

Verdict
Love. Cuir Velours is sexy, perfect for nighttime and cooler weather, when something warm and smoky is called for. I get fantastic sillage and longevity from this fragrance. When I initially assembled the pump action spray that ships with the bottle, I thought the spray result was a little mean at first, but in reality I wouldn't want anything more. The strength of this fragrance is very much an Eau de Parfum. 

All in all a great investment and this winter I have been wearing this a lot already.

Tinkering

Apologies if you visit this blog and things seem a little rough around the edges and in flux. I'd love to be one of those people who can give birth to a creative enterprise fully formed, but in reality I'm a trier. A tinkerer. For me is the give it a go, suck and see approach.

For example, as I write this the header I made is red and green. It's ok, but after I put it up and thought "that looks nice" the second thing I thought was "ugh, Christmas". So this too shall change soon no doubt. Maybe I'll resurrect it in December...

BBC Perfume Documentary

I had heard about this 2011 documentary but had never seen it. Of course I should have just gone straight to youtube!

Part 1: Something Old, Something New (58mins)


Part 2: Bottling The Memory (58mins)


Part 3: The Smell of the Future (47mins)

Melbourne Fragrance Shopping. Service and Style.

I was recently in Melbourne for a short holiday, and I penciled in an entire day to visit two fragrance destinations I was very excited to see. (Well, I say "see" but what I really mean is splash some cash and get my hands on some very hard to obtain treasures.)

Like many members of the fragrance community over time I have started to depend on buying fragrances online, partly for price but also for convenience and the ability to enlarge the range of available fragrances above and beyond the local department store. Which is understandable, but ignores the fact that the art of shopping for fragrance can be an enormous pleasure in itself. I also believe in supporting local retailers, and frankly if we don't use them we are likely to lose them.

So on a grey, cold and rainy early winter day in Melbourne I set out on a fragrance hunting safari.

Peony Haute Perfumery
I arrived early to Peony Haute Perfumery so I explored the lovely village area of Auburn Rd, Hawthorn where it is located and had breakfast in a nearby cafe. Stepping into Peony from the cold and rain, I found myself in a beautiful little jewel box of a store. The interior is mainly black and white, with white walls and elegant gloss black or mirrored fixtures, and a few taupe or beige accents. The net result is light and bright, elegant, and vintage in feel without being stuffy. The neutral palette also lets the products be the star.

Oh lordy, and what products they are!

 

Amouage, Creed and Keiko Mecheri fragrances display

Shortly after I walked in the door, the owner Jill introduced herself and let me know that she'd be happy to help if I needed it. I was on a mission to bag myself a bottle of "Cuir Velours" by Naomi Goodsir, so once Jill pointed me in the right direction I had an awestruck wander around.

Fornasetti candles, room fragrance and accessories

I actually found myself getting a little overwhelmed. Amazing brands I had never heard of, and fragrances I had wanted to try for ages were everywhere. I had set myself a budget, so the bottle of "Cuir Velors" was going to have to be my limit. For this trip anyway. Given the cash I would have bought the entire Fornasetti candle range, just for starters.

Fragrances, candles and body products on display

Jill was absolutely lovely to talk to, and so knowledgeable. We did some spritzing and sampling, chatted about fragrances and the industry, and before I left Jill gave me a substantial number of samples to take with me to try and enjoy.

Cire Trudon candles and room fragrance

What a fantastic experience. Great service. Amazing products. I think I was probably in the store for about an hour, and had an absolute ball. It was almost a bonus that at the end of it all I had a lovely bag full of treats.

I would be so broke if I lived in Melbourne.

Fleurage Perfume Atelier
My second destination was Fleurage Perfume Atelier in South Melbourne. Fleurage are different and unique, in that they make all their own fragrances from natural extraits and essential oils. All the fragrances are parfum or eau de parfum strength.

The bespoke fragrance ingredients and other displays at Fleurage

The welcome at Fleurage was just as warm and friendly as at Peony. The owner and perfumer Emma was on hand to help me find a fragrance, which was (as I had suspected from reading about the fragrances on the website) the lovely spicy, incense, fougere "Mabon". While she was wrapping the beautifully presented bottle, we had a nice long chat about fragrance and the business.

Fragrance display at Fleurage

The store itself is quite discrete from the street, with an elegant art deco styled interior of grey and black, with some original timber pieces. While we were chatting Emma explained that over the years her business model has changed slightly, with an increase in bespoke fragrances, consulting to the industry, and classes now making up a large part of the business. Consequently Fleurage in it's current location is as much showroom and workshop as retail store.

So, there you have it. Two fantastic shopping experiences, made all the better by owners who were passionate about their businesses and the industry, and happy to chat to a fellow 'fume-head. In the process I shelled out over $350-, not a small sum, but I had a brilliant day and have two bottles of amazing fragrances to provide long lasting enjoyment.

Thanks to Jill and Emma for the great friendly and knowledgeable service.

Review - Berdoues 1902 Eau de Cologne Premium Collection "Vetiver Herbacea"

As I mentioned the other week I had a little splurge recently and bought some new fragrances for the new year. Three of them were blind buys, and a couple of the choices I made were based on the fact that they sounded like ideal summer scents. And summer it has been! Sydney has been sweltering with record temperatures this summer, and so something light and fresh seems very much what's required.

I've become quite a big fan of Vetiver, with its complex herbal aroma that has a jute or hessian note. So when I spotted  Berdoues 1902 Eau de Cologne Premium Collection "Vetiver Herbacea" online I decided to give it a try and see if it might fit the bill for a summer scent. Berdoues is an old house, founded in 1902 in Toulouse when Guillaume Berdoues created his perfumery. Since then four generations of perfumers have continued the brand.

Berdoues 1902 Eau de Cologne Premium Collection "Vetiver Herbacea"

Berdoues 1902 Eau de Cologne Premium Collection "Vetiver Herbacea"

5 Minutes
Vetiver Herbacea opens with a pleasant fresh, surprisingly aldehydic floral and powdery musk beginning, with a lightly citrus and herbal feel. If you are looking for the earthy green jute and hessian notes of natural vetiver you will be disappointed. No rasp here. This is a posh drawing room and fine china notion of vetiver.

And I say "notion of vetiver" because, surprisingly, I don't think it actually contains any. Um, nope. This is despite the fact that it says "Refreshing and Revitalising Essential Oils" all over the box front, and then bangs on about the virtues of Vetiver essential oil in combination with Mandarine (sic) essential oil.

When I was unwrapping the box I noticed that there was a comprehensive list of ingredients, and amongst the Benzophenone-1 and 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde I could not find vetiver, or mandarin. Citral (from lemongrass), yes, Oakmoss extract, sure, and a whole lot of aroma chemicals, definitely. I have no problem with aroma molecules and non-natural perfume ingredients, but c'mon guys, let's not pretend it's choc full of the virtues of natural vetiver.

30 Minutes
30 minutes in and the initial aldehydic floral and powdery notes have eased off and let the herbal, clean musk and light woodsy notes take a bit more of a starring role. This is definitely an Eau de Cologne in terms of longevity and sillage, and after a half hour it is a very pleasant, light skin scent. Wear this to the office in warm weather and nobody will be rummaging in their drawers for their gas mask. Elevator friendly. (And as a bonus everyone will think you smell perfectly summery and fresh.)

2 Hours
After 2 hours this has become a barely there skin scent, with a light herbal and laundry musk feel. The nature of the fragrance hasn't changed a great deal since the head notes exited the scene, just lighter. If anyone gets close enough to be up close and personal with you, clean and fresh would be their verdict. Nice. Well mannered. Perhaps a little dull, if like me you had something a little more well Vetiver-y in mind.